Amahoro! (& Thanks for following)

Well, this is it. We are wrapping up our blog entries. This has been a trip beyond description on many levels. The things we learned and now understand about the Genocide take us way beyond any of the books we have read or films we have seen.

We have met some incredible people whom we will remember forever, and had experiences that may shape us and our way of thinking for the rest of our lives.

We want to thank all of you who have followed our blog and sent us e-mails of support, encouragement and questions. We are very surpised that there was so much interest in this trip.

We would like to thank Caren Hansen for all of her help with this blog, especially fixing and correcting for us.

Lastly we would like to thank our families, especially our wives and children. They have been patient, supportive and flexible. Even though we are sorry to have to leave, we anticipate the hugs we will recieve and give in a few days.

Please check back to this site in a week or so. We plan to post photos from the trip.

Amahoro!

Kuntz and Cave

Milles Collines & A Great Burger!

When we woke up this morning we walked around the central part of Kigali for a while and did a little shopping and then made our way over to the Hotel des Milles Collines (Hotel Rwanda). We sat by the pool for most of the day, had a cheeseburger for lunch, and just people watched.

The Hotel Milles Collines was of course made famous by the film, "Hotel Rwanda." Paul Rusesabagina managed to save thousands of Tutsis by hiding them in the hotel during the genocide. The hotel is in direct view of the US Embassy and was in direct view of UN headquarters during the genocde. For many years, it was the center of Kigali's political and social scene. Much "business" took place at this pool in Kigali.

In the evening we met a man named Egde and his family who are visiting Rwanda from St. Paul. Egide's son and daughter (Paul and Ruth) are Tutsi survivors of the Genocide and his niece and nephew. After Paul and Ruth's family were killed, they managed to survive on their own for 2 months. Egide and his wife Kristen adopted Paul and Ruth in the late '90's. Both attend Central High School in St. Paul.

Kibuye, Kivu & Barf

So, last night when we returned to the hotel, Felix the cab driver showed up. We went out to talk with him and made small talk for about five minutes and then tried to say goodbye. He then demanded we pay the balance for his services (about $40). We argued for several minutes in the lobby of the hotel, had the desk clerk translating, and finally settled on half the balance to end the argument.

This morning we hopped on a bus to visit the town of Kibuye. The ride lasted about 3 hours and we spent only 4 hours in town before returning to Kigali.

We visited another church where 11,400 Tutsis were massacred in the genocide. It was a beautiful Catholic church with several stained glass windows. We spent about thirty minutes sitting in the pews enjoying the peaceful setting. A young woman who is a parishoner at the church sat down to talk to us for a while. She was born in Kibuye in 1988. Both of her parents were killed in the genocide at the church. She still attends mass at the parish and is an accounting student in the city of Gitarama.

We ate lunch at a very nice guest house on Lake Kivu before making the 3 hour trek back to Kigali.

Roosters Crowing, Loud Sweeping, Honking, Yelling (And Futbol)

Rwanda is a very loud place during the waking hours. We have been going to bed around 9 or 10 p.m. as Rwandans wake up and start their days just as the sun rises. We have only had to set an alarm one morning, up in Kinigi next to Volcanoes National Park. The other mornings, the sounds of Rwanda have awakened us: roosters crowing, loud sweeping, honking, yelling, you name it.

After having breakfast, we set out to do some shopping (just our thing). We wandered down to the main market of Kigali. Even on a Sunday morning, the place is loud and bustling. As we've said before, Rwandans buy most of their things in markets rather than in stores, so we didn't have much luck finding gifty/souvenir type things.

We broke out James' travel guide (Dave left his in the back of a truck hitchhiking), and found a handicrafts cooperative not far from the center of the city. We found many authentic Rwandan crafts in the co-op and plan to go back.

After returning to our hotel and dropping our things, we grabbed some lunch at our new favorite restaurant-Sole Luna before going to the soccer match. The teams today were much better and there were between four and five thousand people in the stadium today. It was evidently a big match for the team from Kigali, Rayan Sports. They were playing a team from Cyangugu called Estoile. The Rayan Sports team started the first half slowly and the score was tied at the half. During the second half, R.S. dominated and won the game 3-1.

The best part was the celebration after the game. People left the stadium with their blue and white flags and cheered through the streets. We were slapping fives on the backs of motos on our way back to the hotel.

Fun day in Kigali. Milli Way (Good Afternoon)

James and Dave

Felix (Take 2) and Rain in the Dry Season

We think we've mentioned before that time in Rwanda in elastic. We ate breakfast at our guest house and decided to read a little before Felix showed up to pick us up at 9:30am. We read until about 10:15, got scared by the biggest bumble bee in the southern hemisphere, and then contined to read (Seriously! we took a photo and laughed very hard!). We read until 11:00 am. Felix had not shown up. We told the staff at the guest house that we were going to walk into town and that if Felix should show up, that's where we'd be. (It woudn't be hard to find us in the town of Kibungo). We waited around until about 11:30 and finally decided that Felix had probably ditched us. Luckily a mini-bus left for Kigali at 11:45.

A mini-bus in Rwanda is about the size of a Volkswagen bus (or more recently a Vanagon) and in the US, 10 people and the family dog would fit rather nicely. Well with James' head smashed into the ceiling and his knees into the back of the seat in front of him all 19 people! took off for the 2 hour trip to Kigali. Now this was an express bus which must mean something different in Rwanda. After 5 or 6 other stops we made it to Kigali.

Our plan was to go to Amahoro stadium and watch a soccer match. As we were leaving the guest house it started to rain! To rain! In the dry season in Africa! For 2 hours! Anyway we made it to the game, watched a fun match then went to a Mexican restaraunt. Not bad.

Things here are great and winding down. We will try to see Kibuye beginning of next week (Immaculee's hometown) then our last night will be spent at the Milles Collines (Hotel Rwanda)

Lates.

Cave & Kuntz.

Felix, Nyrabuye & Rusumo Falls

This morning we woke up and secured transportation to the village of Nyrabuye and Rusomo. We drove for about an hour southeast of Kigali and then turned off the main road. We drove for another hour or so up a very rocky and bumpy dirt road until we came to the small village of Nyarbuye.

We found the genocide memorial at the church that we were looking for and we were told that it was closed. Felix, our taxi driver helped us get in touch with the "Executive of the Kibungo District." We conviced this person that we were indeed teachers and doing research on the genocide. After several minutes, they finally agreed to let us into the site. About 25,000 people were killed in the school attached to the church in Nyrabuye. This is one of the more infamous massacre sites of the genocide.

Before commiting the murders at Nyrabuye, the killers surrounded the church compound (a school, priest residence and church) and waited to kill. They cut tendons and waited longer. One of the most moving part of the site were 4 large rocks that were worn smooth by the killers sharpening thier machettes. Very hard to explain the impact that this site had on both of us.

After finishing up at the site, we continued on to the border town of Rusomo. We had planned to stay there for the night but when we arrived we decided it was best to return to the town of Kibungo. Rusomo is right on the Tanzanian border and there is a fairly large waterfall under a bridge separating the two countries. We walked out on the bridge and, flirting with the Tanzanian border, we took some picture.

Once we arrived in Kibungo, we found a nice guest house to stay in. Felix had some family to visit in town so we made a plan for him to pick us up tomorrow at 9:30am.

Interesting day. Mulaho.

James and Dave

Some Observations

We have been making some general observations about Rwandan culture that we thought we would share with you before we tell you about our day.

Rwandans are very busy all of the time. They are working or on their way to work. If they live in the country, they are working in their fields or bringing crops to and from the market.

Most Rwandans walk from point A to point B. In the United States, these walks would be extremely long. For example, if a family lives 12 km from the market, they would walk there and back almost everyday.

People walking are constantly dodging traffic and vice versa. Vehicles often come within inches of pedestrians.

Honking, swerving, and cutting people off is the norm. Road rage, or even road anger are very rare.

Very few Rwandans are overweight.

Very few visit grocery stores. Most frequent the market to buy what they need for their homes. The markets in towns are similar to the farmer's markets in Minneapolis and St. Paul except on a much bigger scale.

Homes within cities are walled, and Rwandans lock everything. We have had up to 5 keys for one hotel room.

We have found no ice in Rwanda. Both drinks and food are usually lukewarm.

People stare at Muzungos intently but most respond with a large smile and a head nod when we greet them with some Kinyarwanda.

Rwandans have very few material posessions. This is due to obvious economic circumstances, but we have noticed that Rwandans don't necessarily desire material things.

Most people we've met have a very favorable view of the US and are very interested in our country and its people.

Rwandans are generally very optimistic.

There does not seem to be a negative overtone left over from the genocide. Our cab driver today said that the genocide was an event in the past. He said that Rwandans are now trying hard to invite others to their tables for meals.

Most Rwandans are very religious and practice some sort of Christianity (75% Catholic).

Meals sometimes take a long time to prepare. If you come here and get frusturated and ask yourself, "What, are they killing the chicken?" they may very well be.