First, today's shout outs:
Thanks to Janna-it was probably just the hormones. Kern-Thanks for the great questions. We'll be expecting a call from Pulitzer. Are you nominating? Unc-Can't wait to decorate for the 4th. M,Z,Z,E,P,I and K,A,L,F,-we miss you very much. We think and talk about you all the time. All of our love.
Pants Update-Still got 'em (the same ones on we mean).
Funny, after a while you get used to sleeping with the sounds of the developing world outside your door or window. There is usually sweeping, honking, yelling, laughter, diesel engines, etc. At the Hotel Faucon (which used to be the home of the Belgian colonial governor) the walls are about two feet thick. The rooms are 100 yards from the street. Last night was eerily quiet. We both had trouble sleeping without the familiar sounds of life in Rwanda directly outside.
After waking up we went to the hotel restaurant for omelettes. We both ordered tomato and cheese in our eggs since that is what was offered. We enjoyed some delightful hot dog buns with honey and tea and coffee as we waited. After waiting for about a half an hour, we were informed that they were out of cheese. We said that that would be fine, a tomato omelette sounded delightful. We then ate some fresh fruit and received our bill. No eggs either I guess. Oh well.
Butare is considered the cultural capitol of the country. The National Museum is there as well as the National University. Until the change of power in 1959, it was the capital city and home of the Mwami Kings.
We made our way to the National Museum. It had seven rooms that exhibited Rwanda's history from prehistory to present. It actually took us only about 45 minutes to walk through and we weren't necessarily rushing. The museum exhibited very little about the Genocide. Interesting.
We decided to go the village of Kibeho which has been famous for the last 25 years because people have seen apparitions of the Virgin Mary on top of the hill. After debating about whether or not to hire a cab for about $30 U.S., or take a mini-bus, we decided to travel with the locals. We walked to the bus station in town and we were directed to the Kibeho bus. It was non-stop party bus from then on. We exhibited our skills in Kinyarwanda and showed everyone on the bus pictures of our families. We felt very fortunate to get this bus when we did, it is the only one going to Kibeho today.
As we started to drive we realized that we were not going to be traveling on paved roads. As we wound throught neighborhoods then villages, then country sides the red dust started wauffeding (sp) up through the holes in the floorboards and through the cracks in the windows and doors. After about 15 minutes we both were covered with red dust; our teeth, our arms, our clothes, and our pants!
After a drive of about 1 1/4 hours we arrived. Arrived where we were not sure. Nothing. So we started walking.
Dave turned to James and said "good thing we managed to get on the last bus to Kibeho." Both started laughing, James said, "that means that we just got off the last bus departing from Kibeho!" We would problem solve that one later.
As was mentioned Kibeho is internationally famous among Christians because of the Mary sighting 25 years ago. It is the only Catholic church approved apparition site in Africa. Needless to say, many from around the world have pillgrimaged to see the site.
When we arrived at the top of the hill we saw two churches. The first was one was newer as it was created to honor the Virgin Mary. We walked in and spent some quiet time in this holy place.
We left the church and found a small memorial in the back and just before a school. We met a girl named Jean or Margaret (we are not sure) who was studying at the foot of Mary (a statue). We asked her about the Virgin and about the Genocide memorial site. She lead us to a small chapel where perpetual adoration was taking places before leading us the the original Kibeho church.
As she led us up to Genocide site, she informed us that her mother and father had been killed during the Genocide in Kibeho. She is still living in the town on top of this remote hill. The Genocide memorial was closed when we got up there but we did get to go inside the church. During the Genocide there were 25000 people killed inside the church. The inside was about the size of a quarter of a football field. It has since been restored and the people of Kibeho celebrate mass there again.
Shortly before the Genocide started, the first lady of Rwanda, Agathe Habyarimana, visited Kibeho and announced that she too had seen the Virgin Mary and that she had been told that the elimination of the Tutsis was going to happen. Just another piece of propaganda to justify the slaughter of a million people in three months.
After several minutes we exited the church and reminded ourselves that we were kind of stuck 30 kilometers from Butare on top of a hill. We had four options. Sleep in Kibeho, take a bike taxi, start walking, or try to find a moto-taxi. As luck would have it, a moto-taxi pulled up. He said that he would find another moto and that we could go to Butare for 3500RWF ($7). He returned shortly with his riding buddy and inflation and the fact that we are white caused the price to rise to $4000 RWF ($8). We quickly strapped on the helmets, crossed our fingers, and hopped on the back.
As we mentioned before, the mini-bus ride up to Kibeho was very dusty. The motos travelled much more quickly, but were much more dirty. As we sit here now in the internet cafe in downtown Kigali, people are staring at us wondering why these two muzungus are wearing red shirts, red pants, red socks, red shoes, red teeth, red boogers. After the promised 30 minute trip became 60 minutes (you should see a pattern here), we finally arrived back in Butare.
Travelling to Kibeho and back makes one hungry. We returned to the Faucon to have brochettes and Fantas and watch the world go by. Debi, the woman we met in Ruhengeri was going by with the world. She had just finished her last day as an intern at the hospital in Butare. We small talked for a while with her and then invited her to sit down. Surprisingly she declined. Who wouldn't want to have lunch with two large white men caked in red dirt from head to toe? She's weird.
Rather than stay in Butare for a hot shower and a relaxing evening. We decided to return to Kigali. We bought bus tickets on the 4:30 Volcano Express to Kigali. The ride would take two hours. Driving at night in Rwanda is an experience. In addition to buses there are other vehicles driving on the road and a steady stream of people returning to their homes along the side. Two and a half hours later we arrived in Kigali. Here we sit, still covered in dust, we have to pee, and gearing up for our 2000 mile trek to the Iris.
Make sure to stay tuned for very exciting announcement tomorrow.
Millibeho (Good Night)
Thanks to Janna-it was probably just the hormones. Kern-Thanks for the great questions. We'll be expecting a call from Pulitzer. Are you nominating? Unc-Can't wait to decorate for the 4th. M,Z,Z,E,P,I and K,A,L,F,-we miss you very much. We think and talk about you all the time. All of our love.
Pants Update-Still got 'em (the same ones on we mean).
Funny, after a while you get used to sleeping with the sounds of the developing world outside your door or window. There is usually sweeping, honking, yelling, laughter, diesel engines, etc. At the Hotel Faucon (which used to be the home of the Belgian colonial governor) the walls are about two feet thick. The rooms are 100 yards from the street. Last night was eerily quiet. We both had trouble sleeping without the familiar sounds of life in Rwanda directly outside.
After waking up we went to the hotel restaurant for omelettes. We both ordered tomato and cheese in our eggs since that is what was offered. We enjoyed some delightful hot dog buns with honey and tea and coffee as we waited. After waiting for about a half an hour, we were informed that they were out of cheese. We said that that would be fine, a tomato omelette sounded delightful. We then ate some fresh fruit and received our bill. No eggs either I guess. Oh well.
Butare is considered the cultural capitol of the country. The National Museum is there as well as the National University. Until the change of power in 1959, it was the capital city and home of the Mwami Kings.
We made our way to the National Museum. It had seven rooms that exhibited Rwanda's history from prehistory to present. It actually took us only about 45 minutes to walk through and we weren't necessarily rushing. The museum exhibited very little about the Genocide. Interesting.
We decided to go the village of Kibeho which has been famous for the last 25 years because people have seen apparitions of the Virgin Mary on top of the hill. After debating about whether or not to hire a cab for about $30 U.S., or take a mini-bus, we decided to travel with the locals. We walked to the bus station in town and we were directed to the Kibeho bus. It was non-stop party bus from then on. We exhibited our skills in Kinyarwanda and showed everyone on the bus pictures of our families. We felt very fortunate to get this bus when we did, it is the only one going to Kibeho today.
As we started to drive we realized that we were not going to be traveling on paved roads. As we wound throught neighborhoods then villages, then country sides the red dust started wauffeding (sp) up through the holes in the floorboards and through the cracks in the windows and doors. After about 15 minutes we both were covered with red dust; our teeth, our arms, our clothes, and our pants!
After a drive of about 1 1/4 hours we arrived. Arrived where we were not sure. Nothing. So we started walking.
Dave turned to James and said "good thing we managed to get on the last bus to Kibeho." Both started laughing, James said, "that means that we just got off the last bus departing from Kibeho!" We would problem solve that one later.
As was mentioned Kibeho is internationally famous among Christians because of the Mary sighting 25 years ago. It is the only Catholic church approved apparition site in Africa. Needless to say, many from around the world have pillgrimaged to see the site.
When we arrived at the top of the hill we saw two churches. The first was one was newer as it was created to honor the Virgin Mary. We walked in and spent some quiet time in this holy place.
We left the church and found a small memorial in the back and just before a school. We met a girl named Jean or Margaret (we are not sure) who was studying at the foot of Mary (a statue). We asked her about the Virgin and about the Genocide memorial site. She lead us to a small chapel where perpetual adoration was taking places before leading us the the original Kibeho church.
As she led us up to Genocide site, she informed us that her mother and father had been killed during the Genocide in Kibeho. She is still living in the town on top of this remote hill. The Genocide memorial was closed when we got up there but we did get to go inside the church. During the Genocide there were 25000 people killed inside the church. The inside was about the size of a quarter of a football field. It has since been restored and the people of Kibeho celebrate mass there again.
Shortly before the Genocide started, the first lady of Rwanda, Agathe Habyarimana, visited Kibeho and announced that she too had seen the Virgin Mary and that she had been told that the elimination of the Tutsis was going to happen. Just another piece of propaganda to justify the slaughter of a million people in three months.
After several minutes we exited the church and reminded ourselves that we were kind of stuck 30 kilometers from Butare on top of a hill. We had four options. Sleep in Kibeho, take a bike taxi, start walking, or try to find a moto-taxi. As luck would have it, a moto-taxi pulled up. He said that he would find another moto and that we could go to Butare for 3500RWF ($7). He returned shortly with his riding buddy and inflation and the fact that we are white caused the price to rise to $4000 RWF ($8). We quickly strapped on the helmets, crossed our fingers, and hopped on the back.
As we mentioned before, the mini-bus ride up to Kibeho was very dusty. The motos travelled much more quickly, but were much more dirty. As we sit here now in the internet cafe in downtown Kigali, people are staring at us wondering why these two muzungus are wearing red shirts, red pants, red socks, red shoes, red teeth, red boogers. After the promised 30 minute trip became 60 minutes (you should see a pattern here), we finally arrived back in Butare.
Travelling to Kibeho and back makes one hungry. We returned to the Faucon to have brochettes and Fantas and watch the world go by. Debi, the woman we met in Ruhengeri was going by with the world. She had just finished her last day as an intern at the hospital in Butare. We small talked for a while with her and then invited her to sit down. Surprisingly she declined. Who wouldn't want to have lunch with two large white men caked in red dirt from head to toe? She's weird.
Rather than stay in Butare for a hot shower and a relaxing evening. We decided to return to Kigali. We bought bus tickets on the 4:30 Volcano Express to Kigali. The ride would take two hours. Driving at night in Rwanda is an experience. In addition to buses there are other vehicles driving on the road and a steady stream of people returning to their homes along the side. Two and a half hours later we arrived in Kigali. Here we sit, still covered in dust, we have to pee, and gearing up for our 2000 mile trek to the Iris.
Make sure to stay tuned for very exciting announcement tomorrow.
Millibeho (Good Night)
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